How fat is too fat?

Those who follow my more personal blog will know that I have been helping out at a small little training yard. Now, just in case you are wondering, this training yard is not one of those who are only in it for the money. So far it is the only training yard I have come across where the horse's well fare comes first, even above winning and money!

Anyway, so there is this one Welsh Cob pony there who is owned by one of the top Welsh stud farms here in South Africa. This pony will be going to the Welsh Cob championships in a few months. At the moment he is in very good condition, not too fat and not too thin, absolutely perfect for his size. He is only four years old and is a little nervous, but once he settles down he is the cutest little thing!

Yesterday his owners came to see how he was doing. The first thing they remarked on was that he had lost too much weight! They told the trainers that his food has to be doubled, because they want him to look twice his size!!! They want the pony to get two full haynets of lucenre (Alfalfa), double the amount of bran and oats every day.

Our concern is that the extra weight will be unhealthy for the poor little thing. With such a rich diet he would be prone to laminitis, maybe even colic. Then there is the fact that his new diet will contain too much energy, making him too energetic and hard to control, especially considering his nervous nature.

What is it with shows and fat horses? It is known that overly fat horses are unhealthy, yet, we still insist on seeing round horses in the show ring. Wouldn't it be better to have a horse with sufficient muscle to carry his rider and perform? An over weight the horse's heart will be under great strain, especially if he has to carry a rider around. The horse will tire easily too.

Personally, I would rather have a happy, healthy horse than a fat, unhealthy one.

Measuring your horse's height

Traditionally horses are measured in hands. One hand will equal 4 inches (the average width of the human hand). The horse's height is termed as x “hands high” or “h.h”.

What tools to use?



You can use your hands to measure your horse's height by placing one on top of the other. However, this isn't very accurate and practical. Ideally, you should use a tape or a stick. A measuring stick will work best, because it won't move that easily and will stay taught (unlike the tape).

Before Measuring

Make sure your horse is standing on flat solid ground. Get your horse to stand squarely to ensure you get an accurate measurement.

How to measure?



With your horse standing still place the stick/tape upright on the ground, keeping it as perpendicular to the ground as possible. Usually, a measuring stick will come with and arm, but if it doesn't you can just make use of a short straight stick.




Place this stick/arm on top of the withers and hole it perpendicular to the stick/tape. Take note of where the stick/arm touches the stick/tape and mark it if you want.

Calculating your horse's height

If you used a measuring stick/tape that measures in inches or centimeters you have to convert your measurement into hands. If you measured in inches, all you have to do is divide the amount by 4. The total will give you your horse's height in hands.

For example:

If your horse measured 58 inches, you divide it by 4 and get 14.5. So, your horse is 14 and a half hands high. Correctly written your horse would be 14.2 h.h because half a hand is 2 inches (remember one hand equals 4 inches).

If you measured your horse in centimeters you will have to convert your measurement into inches first and then divide it by 4.

For example:

My pony measures 129,5 centimeters. I divide this by 2.5 (1 inch equals 2.5 centimeters) and get 50.98 inches. Divide this by 4 inches and I get 12.77.

So I know my pony is 12 hands but I have to calculate how many inches 0.7 is (I usually just work with the first decimal). Now what I do is I times 7 by 0.4 and get 2.8 inches. Thus my pony measures 12 hands and 2.8 inches. So I can say that my pony is somewhere between 12.2 and 12.3 h.h.

Here is a LINK to a table that gives you all the heights in hands and their values in centimeters :)

Tendon and Ligament Injuries

How and Why?





Horses are prone to tendon/ligament injuries, especially when being worked hard. Their legs were not designed to cope with the stresses of everyday hard work. In nature the horse spends most of its time grazing which does little to the tendons/ligaments of the legs. This is why it is very important to ensure the horse is strong enough to do the required work. The horse has to be warmed up properly before staring the work. Working sessions should be started slow and then built up over a period of time so that the muscles, tendons and ligaments can become strong enough to cope.

Tendons/ligament injuries result from severe strain or direct trauma. Other factors can contribute to a tendon/ligament injury: muscle fatigue, uneven/deep ground, poor conformation, ill-fitting bandages/boots and sudden turns.

Different types of injury

Tendon Strains

Overuse or overstress causes damage to the tendons. Damage will range from minor inflammation to the actual tearing on the tendon. The area will be painful and swollen.

Tendonitis

This injury is better known as a bowed tendon. It refers to strains of the SDF tendon. It often occurs when the muscles becomes fatigued and can't compensate for the rapid loading and overstretching of the tendon. This type of injury is not as common in the hindlegs as it is in the frontlegs. The leg will be swollen, warm and painful. The injury is usually described by its location and will either be a low, middle or high bow. Injury to the DDF tendon will cause swelling in the back and below the fetlock joint, and is referred to as a low low bow.

Tenosynovitis

Tendons are surrounded by a sheath, the synovial membrane, that secretes fluid to lubricate the tendon. Inflammation of this sheath causes a build up of fluid in the sheath, resulting in obvious swelling. There are several types of tenosynovitis:

1.Acute Tenosynovitis- there is a sudden build up of fluid within the sheath. It is followed by pain, heat and lameness. This can progress to chronic tenosynovitis.

2.Septic Tenosynovitis- this involves a bacterial infection. The synovial fluid (lubricating fluid) will contain pus and inflammatory enzymes which can digest the tendon. Pain and lameness are severe.

3.Idiopathic Tenosynovitis- these are mild injuries that result in swelling with no pain or lameness. This includes thoroughpin, bog spavin and wind puffs.

Lacerated/Ruptured tendons

This can be caused by a deep cut to the leg or overextension/overflexion of a fatigued joint during work.

How the injury heals

When the tendon/ligament is injured the tendon fibers and blood vessels tear. The process worsens when blood and fluid leaks into the tendon.

Inflammatory cells migrate to the damaged area. The inflammatory cells secrete enzymes that will break down the damaged tissue so that the body can remove it. Inflammation is a very important part of the healing process, but if it goes unchecked, it can cause damage to the good tendon tissue too.

One to six months after injury new blood vessels and immature tissue are formed. The immature tendon tissue aren't as strong as the old ones. These fibers are made of a weaker collagen called Type III collagen. This type of collagen is less mature, weaker and arranged haphazardly (instead of parallel).

Six months (and onwards) after injury the Type III collagen is slowly replaced by stronger Type I collagen, but not completely. The fibers are slowly rearranged in a more parallel fashion. The fibers has to be strengthened with controlled exercise. Controlled exercise will also help reduce scar tissue. However, the tendon will never be as strong as it was before.

The entire healing process takes anything from 9 to 12 months. Additional healing may occur years after.

The ABC of Nosebands

Tight nosebands...

This is one of my pet peeves and gets my skin crawling (I'm not ashamed to admit it!). I cannot stand the sight of a horse with her mouth shut closed by a tight noseband. Why is the noseband so tight? No, because the horse will not behave, objects to her work or will not keep her mouth closed. Does no one know what nosebands are supposed to be used for these days? Who came up with the idea that a tight noseband will solve any problem?

If a horse is schooled, and ridden correctly, she should not need the support of any noseband. Back in the old days horsemanship was an art. The idea was to be able to ride a horse in harmony which meant that the horse should be happy to comply to the rider's requests. No force. No pain. No gadgets. True harmony!

Sadly, in modern horsemanship today, riders have become lazy! Yes, I said it. RIDERS HAVE BECOME LAZY. The horse starts to object to his work (for what ever reason be it pain or harsh riding), tries to evade the bit and trots around with the mouth open. Instead of the rider trying to find the source of the problem and working to solve it, the rider slaps on a tight noseband and continues riding. Voila, the horse is not acting up anymore and the mouth is closed. (Oh, no wait, the horse just misbehaved some more. The cavesson cannot be tightened any more. The rider goes and buys a crank noseband). If only all problems were that easy to solve! Honestly, this form of horsemanship is a farce.

Now, there is a time and place for a noseband. With horse sports involving speed and/or jumping, such as racing, steeplechase and cross country, a noseband can prevent the horse from breaking her jaw. By keeping the mouth closed (not tight, but just enough) the jaw will not be able to dig into the ground in an event of a fall. Mind you, the lower jaw can dig into the dirt like a shovel. With it being very weak it is very easy to break if enough force is applied.

When schooling horses, especially the youngsters, the noseband can be used tactfully to encourage the horses to relax the poll and lower jaw. But this will only work if used correctly (not fitted tight) AND if the rider rides correctly (no constant pulling on the reins etc.). A very good trainer once told me that if a horse is misbehaving or not performing a movement correctly, the rider is to blame 99 percent of the time. How true!

The Cavesson Noseband



This is the simplest form of a noseband. It has its origins in the army when cavalry horses would wear a halter over their bridle so that they can be tied when not being ridden. When fitted correctly you should be able to put 2 fingers between the noseband and the horse's face. Yes, you heard me, 2 fingers! I wonder how many rider's fit their nosebands as loose as this? Very few, in my opinion, that is if you can find any at all. Yet, the 2-finger rule is found in all the Pony Club and BHS manuals. Interesting, no? So, what harm does a tight cavesson noseband actually do? Well, if fitted tight enough it can push the soft cheeks against the teeth causing them to rub against one another. This is a common cause of ulcers and lesions on the insides of the cheeks in horses (old and young!).

The Drop Noseband (Hanoverian Cavesson)



This noseband was designed by the Spanish Riding School and is still used by them today. It has been designed to fit lower down the horse's jaw and fits below the joint. This allows the noseband to restrict the opening of the jaw to a greater extent, compared to the cavesson. However, the drop noseband MUST NOT be fitted snugly. The horse must still be able to open its mouth to mouth the bit. If too tight, it will cause tension at the poll and jaw muscles which is detrimental to schooling the horse. It also has the ability to compact the nasal cartilage and nostrils if too tight. Thus, if the horse is working hard and breathing hard to get in more oxygen, the nostrils won't be able to widen enough. The horse's breathing must NEVER be hindered by a noseband. The 2-finger rule applies to this noseband too. If you feed your horse a treat and the horse is unable to chew it, the noseband is too tight!

The Flash Noseband (Aachen Noseband)



This noseband is supposed to give the rider the benefits of both the normal cavesson and drop noseband. The drop noseband serves to keep the mouth closed and the cavesson to provide attachment for the standing martingale. There are, however, some problems with this type of noseband. 1. The flash itself does not perform its job efficiently because it runs diagonaly across the face instead of straight. 2. If the flash is fitted too tight it can actually pull the cavesson down the nose (In this case you might as well just use a drop noseband).

The Crank Noseband (Swedish Cavesson)



Now, I agree with Elwyn Hartley Edwards when he stated, in his book The Complete Book of Bits & Bitting, that this noseband should have no place in educated riding. This noseband has only one function and that is to shut the horse's mouth closed as much as possible. I dare you to prove me wrong :)
It makes use of a pulley system and a turn back strap to crank the mouth shut. Believe it or not, this is the same pulley system used to secure cargo on wagons and trailers! Ironically, these nosebands come with a thick pad in attempt to prevent the noseband from cutting into the horse's jaw. Already fitted tight, this noseband will cause the cheeks to rub against the teeth (regardless of the beautiful, fluffy padding!), but when the horse fights this noseband she actually ends up tightening it further, thus, compressing the cheeks against the teeth even more. What a vicious circle!

The Grackle & Figure 8 Noseband



This noseband consists of straps that run across the face in a figure of 8. The point where these straps meet is padded and the straps are held together via a round leather patch. This noseband is used to prevent the horse from crossing her jaws, hanging on the bit and taking hold of the bit with the teeth. Some horses that finds the normal cavesson too restrictive might find the grackle more comfortable, because it is more flexible and giving. Thus, it gives the horse little or nothing to gape against. It also stays clear of the teeth, so there is less chance of the cheeks being rubbed against the teeth.

The Combination Lever Noseband



This noseband works in much the same way as the grackle, but does not give as much “give”. Because it stays clear of the bit, it does not do anything to stabilize it in any way (as a drop or flash does). It's metal bars may hinder the horse and cause it to cross the jaws.

The Kineton Noseband



This noseband originated from the race tracks for the use on pulling or hard- to- control-at- high-speeds horses. Because of this, this noseband has been thought to be “harsh”. The way this noseband works is it transfers the pressure (applied with the reins) from the bars of the mouth to the nose where it acts like a hackamore but without the leverage. This is very useful for horses that try to run away from the bit, because of how it scares and hurt them.

To use or not to use, that is the question...

Which noseband you decide to use and how you use it depends on the horse. The simplest of equipment in the wrong hands can be just as harmful to the horse as the more advanced equipment. Therefore, use the noseband as tactfully as you would any other gadget. There IS a time and a PLACE for a noseband as mentioned. It is up to you to make the right decision. You alone are responsible fore the welfare of your horse. After all, you are the one that puts all the tack on your horse in the first place!

Do avoid using a gadget (correctly or incorrectly) to mask a problem. You will have far more success if you deal with the problems at their sources. Yes, it will not be easy, but at the end of it all you will have a happier horse and you two will be one step closer to true harmony. And that is something to be proud of :)

HYPP

Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis

I was busy doing some research on horse feeds and happen to come across an article on black sunflower seeds and its nutritional value as a feed. In this article it was mentioned that horses with HYPP should not be fed it because it poses a health risk to those horses. Never before have I heard of HYPP and curiosity led me to doing some research on it. Here is what I found...

What is HYPP?

HYPP is a inherited muscular disease caused by a genetic defect (mutation of the sodium channel gene).

The muscle cell membranes have “pores” known as sodium channels and they control the contraction of the muscle fibers. Mutation of the sodium channel gene causes these channels to become “leaky” when potassium levels fluctuate in the blood. Excessive amounts of potassium in the blood will cause the muscles to contract more readily than normal. The horse then becomes more susceptible to episodes of muscle tremors or paralysis.

HYPP is a natural mutation that occurred as part of the evolutionary defect. This led to the production of an altered sodium channel. It is not caused by inbreeding.

Descendants of the American Quarter Horse sire Impressive are known to likely be carriers of HYPP. According to a UCDAVIS article, confirmed cases of HYPP have been restricted to descendants of this horse.

Inheritance of the gene

The gene can be both homozygous or heterozygous to have an effect on the horse. Homozygous horses, however, seem to be more severely affected. Research is still being done to determine why some horses show more severe signs of the disease than others.

Signs

Sporadic attacks of muscle tremors (shaking or trembling) is a characteristic sign of HYPP. Other signs includes weakness and collapse. Paralysis of the muscles of the upper airway may result in loud breathing noises. Severe paralytic attacks can lead to sudden death, most likely caused by heart failure and respiratory muscle paralysis.

HYPP attacks are often confused with that off Tying Up. One way to distinguish between the two is to observe the horse after the attack. A horse with HYPP will appear normal where as a horse with Tying Up will tend to have a stiff gait and painful/stiff muscles (hindlegs, rump and back).

HYPP attacks can also be confused with colic if the horse lies down or is unable to stand.

During attacks HYPP horses are conscious and aware of their surroundings. They may also appear to not be in pain.

Causes of attacks

Environmental factors can cause an attack. External stimulus and events can increase the chance of paralysis onset. Factors include changes to the diet (high potassium feeds), fasting general anesthesia, and concurrent illness and exercise restriction.

Prevention of HYPP attacks

1.Avoid high potassium feeds (alfalfa, canola oil, soybean meal/oil and molasses.

2. Feed twice a day.

3. Exercise regularly and/or allow frequent access to a large paddock.

4. Inform your vet prior to any anesthesia and medication.

5. When traveling provide plenty of water (every two hours).